My first wheel build

by Stuart 2. November 2013 10:22

After my recent rear hub failure I decided it was time to learn to build a wheel.

I read the following pages over a few times before taking the plunge.

Sheldon Brown’s wheel building pages.

Bike build website - Building Bicycle Wheels

Mike T’s wheelbuilding. 

Stuff

All from chain reaction cycles – which is my LBS – so I went in person.

crc_wheel

Mavic open pro rim – a popular choice for Audax - replacing like for like.

Simano ultegra 6700 10 speed hub.

I didn’t do any research on best hubs.  Since I’m generally running ultegra this was to match. The splines on the Ultegra cassette are specific so a different hub would have meant a new cassette or different freehub. 

Spokes – DT swiss competition.  I used pro wheelbuilder calculator to give me the spoke lengths.  According to Mike T “99% of all wheels are laced cross-3 (usually written x3)” so I went for this.

Mavic publish there SSD as 602 but according to internet, add 3mm for the hole separation. (https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.bicycles.tech/-YgxGdkvaqo).

Park anti seize for the threads.

I treated myself to a DT swiss spoke key as I’m sure the multi size one I use is not great.

Tools

The spoke key and a screwdriver with a bit of tape on it so it’s easier to count turns.

IMAG0274

Have to say a £14 spoke key works like a £14 spoke key should.

Initial Build

I greased the nipples and applied anti-seize to each spoke thread as I fitted.

I followed Sheldon’s instructions (or so I though) but found instructions on which way to thread the spokes (from the inside or out) a bit confusing.

IMAG0269

The Bike Build Website is clearer with pictures of the trailing spokes going over the flange i.e. threaded from the inside.  Later I discovered Sheldon does the opposite as he says it makes the leading spokes more difficult to fit, and I can see how, and he reckons the drive action may force the spokes out more with this set-up  He says its of minor importance thought so I ignored it.  I notice all my current wheels are laced the way I did it.

The only mistake I made was while lacing the leading spokes on the left I noticed I’d missed one on the right, so I popped one in of the wrong length!

Of course, when I realised this it was impossible to tell which one.  I just carried on on the basis that either a problem would emerge because of the spoke being too long e.g. run out of thread or poke through rim, or, since the spoke lengths were fairly even, it would just result in out of true after the initial build.

Never did find which one was wrong.

So, I tightened the spokes to the end of the thread. 

I then did an initial dish of 3 turns on the hub side.  Bike Build mentions this, Sheldon doesn’t.  Seemed a good idea.

After a few rounds of tightening (2 turns 3 times round) the spokes were all tense.  I stopped and went for a curry.

Initial true

At this point I fitted to the frame and started to true. 

IMAG0273

Once the wheel was true enough to rotate, I checked the dishing by putting an old battery package against the chain ring and looking where the wheel at the valve hole (marked with tape) came to. 

I then reversed the wheel and compared and then trued the wheel to half way between the two “readings”.  (The “readings in this case were literal, the last line of the address of the battery manufacturer that was visible).

I then moved the valve hole to my brake blocks and trued the wheel to this.

Tuning

I took a rest.  I read “Held Up By Downward Pull” which explains how less tense wheels are more likely to suffer broken spokes because of fatigue than more tense ones.  Makes perfect sense to me.  The steel is strong enough to hold the wheel even if you drive into a kerb.  you know this because you do it!  However, the slight give as it roles and as you hit things will lead to metal fatigue.  This will be lessened if the spokes are more tense as there is less give.

So took the wheel off, I did all six of Mike T’s Stress relief methods, tuned the drive side spokes to 440Hz using the “G String” guitar tuner on my phone (see http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm), gave every spoke another full turn, did Mike T’s 6 methods again, re-fitted and trued again.

I think I got the horizontal truing spot on – probably better than I ever have before. 

There were a few “hops” but, as Mike T said, no major ones as the nipples were initially screwed down evenly.  I ignored the small ones of less than 1mm.

Fit accessories

IMAG0276

I took advantage of @mrsm’s absence and fitted some tape and swapped accessories (tyre, tube, cassette) over in the warmth of the kitchen.

Conclusion

Too early to say if the build is any good, but it was not as hard as I thought it would be.  Took a good 5 hours plus research time. 

Now all that remains is the long ride test – but I’ll have to wait for @mrsm to return to look after the kids!

Bookmark and Share

Tags: , , , , ,

Cycling | bike buidling | bike repairs | wheelbuilding

What's this all about?

Not the top gear website but one nothing like it. 

Been through a few "what this is" and now settled on my (Stuart McLean's) general blog - mainly about cycling but occasionally anything else chucked in.

I also occasionally write some technical stuff which you can find here.

You can follow me on twitter @stuartm9999.

I record most of my bike rides on runkeeper so you can see them here if you're really bored!

Ride Summary

Recent Rides

@stuartm9999

Note: For Customization and Configuration, CheckOut Recent Tweets Documentation

Links

 

Bike Links

 

Non bike links

 

Tag cloud