- a long ride deserves a long rant…

Mortagne-au-Perche, nearly 1,100 km done, 10:30 pm Wednesday August 19’th.  It was a long climb up to the Control, I could hear applause up ahead but my light was dim, the dynamo struggling to provide power.  There was a spontaneous groan, a steep ramp and then through the crowds of cheering spectators. 

Someone helped me off my bike.  “Controle?” I shouted, “Par-la” – I stumbled into the bright hall, brevet card in hand ready for the stamp.

But that was all to come.

 

Thanks to

This might be quite long so I’ll start with the thanks as its unlikely anyone will read this and even less likely they’ll reach the end.

Fiona and my kids for supporting me, letting me go on all those long rides and putting up with my tiredness (read grumpiness) on my return.

All the organisers of all the brevets and all at Audax Ireland. 

Madigan CC for helping an old guy on a heavy bike go a bit faster.

Everyone who rode with me on all the brevets and training rides.

Audax Club Parisien and all volunteers, for organising PBP.

Everyone I rode with on PBP.

Olivier for last minute load of front wheel and dynamo hub.

Finally, and most of all, the French supporters along the route.  People had said the support was special, it was massive.

To the start

I always find the journey to the start a lot more nerve racking than the ride itself.

Since I had a couple of nights booked in a hotel I asked Fiona if she wanted to come to and she did.  Who could refuse a trip to somewhere near somewhere near Paris.  The flight was a bit delayed at Belfast so we relaxed at the bar.  Turns out we relaxed a bit too much as half an hour later we were sprinting across the airport as the Tannoy called Mr McLean.

To save on hassle we got a Taxi to the hotel.  Expensive, but with the RER under repair and a hangover under way, I didn’t want to be spending hours trekking through underground stations.  As it happened, I got the RER, metro and train on the way back and it was not too much hassle at all.

Hotel was fine – bit in the middle of nowhere but I’ve no complaints.

Registration

I put Sally together in the Hotel corridor and the next morning.found a bit of cobble and cycled down it.

Nothing fell off so I proceeded to the registration.

Registration was in the National Velodrome.  Pretty impressive.  Bit of queuing but with 6000, to be expected.

Mechanic recommended I take a look at my rear brake – he was right – the cable had obviously pulled through a bit in transit – but nothing that couldn't be sorted in a couple of minutes.

We assembled for the team photo – and then Fiona and I went off for some sightseeing around Versailles for the afternoon.

Palais was spectacular.

Got at bit nervous at the restaurant in the evening when Fiona pointed out everyone else was drinking water and I was on the beer.

The start

Not the usual parking outside the café at lunch!

After lunch and a fond farewell to Fiona, I made my way to the start line where I met up with some old friends.

And watch the first groups go.

 

And eventually it was my turn.

START
0km
Time 16/08 18:16

The ride

Stats

Stage 1 – Villaines.

Departed:    Aug 16, '15, 06:11PM
Starts in:    Montigny-le-Bretonneux, Île-de-France, FR
Distance:    219.0 km
Elevation:    + 1874 / - 1865 m
Max Grade   
8.9 %
Avg. Grade   
0.7 %
VAM    302 Vm/h
Ascent time    06:11:49
Descent time    02:55:43
Total Duration:    09:51:59
Moving Time:    09:10:51
Stopped Time:    00:41:08
Calories:    7755
Avg. Watts:    235
Max Speed:    56.5 kph
Avg. Speed:    23.9 kph

VILLAINES
KM - 221km
Time from start 09:51
Arrival - 17/08 04:07
Departure - Aug 17, '15, 06:02AM

I had been warned that rolling out of Paris could be pretty dangerous – so I worked my way to fairly near the front of the group and was pretty attentive.

Soon the escorts let us pass and we were rolling across open roads forming groups of companions and strangers.

By 50km I had lost all AI riders and was riding with an ancien who lived on the side of Vetoux and climbed like a mountain goat!

I also spent a little time with RUSA Clyde.

At about 70km I stopped and put on my night wear.

Mortagne-au-Perche was billed as a services only stop.  As I entered the town there was a café open.  Unsure as to what services only meant (I should have read the instructions) I pulled in.  Unfortunately they had just sold the last food, but I got a coffee and put on more clothes (leg warmers and boot covers) as the temperature was dropping.

A bit further up the road I entered the real control.  Outside there was a big barbeque and sandwich marquee.  But they had just run out of bread.  Someone said the queues inside at the cafeteria were long – so I filled my bottles and pushed on.

At some point I met with Aidan and we rode on and off with a couple of SF Randoneuses.

Villaines-la-Juhel was the first mandatory control (requiring a stamp in the Brevet Card). 

I arrived with Aiden.

As we entered the town there were some open bakeries but this time I continued to the control which was in a closed street. I parked my bike and was directed to the control on one side of the street.  As I was entering the building I was told there was a restaurant with a smaller queue across the road.  At the time I wasn’t sure if they were talking about the bakery.  It wasn’t until the next control that I realised each control had a sandwhich counter and a caffeteria.  Again – I should have read the instructions.

Although hungry, after a 20 minute queue, I just got pastries and beer.  I had planned an hours sleep here I took it, finding a corner of the floor to lay down on.

Last thing I remember was hearing Olivier’s voice say – “there’s Stu”!

Stage 2 – Fougres

Departed:Aug 17, '15, 06:02AM
Starts in: Villaines-la-Juhel, Pays de la Loire, FR
Distance:89.1 km
Elevation: + 881 / - 968 m
Max Grade 7.2 %
Avg. Grade 0.6 %
VAM 355 Vm/h
Ascent time 02:28:46
Descent time 01:25:10
Total Duration: 04:14:47
Moving Time: 03:53:56
Stopped Time: 00:20:51
Calories: 2628
Avg. Watts: 187
Max Speed: 56.3 kph
Avg. Speed: 22.8 kph
Pace: 00:02:52
Moving Pace: 00:02:38

My watch buzzed and I woke.  Aiden was a few bodies away from me and was emerging too.  I changed into my Portuguese randoneurs top – never fails.

Paul Newmann and, I think, Niall were arriving and queuing, and I advised them of the across the road options which I hope helped. 

Found paddy and we set off into the morning.  Aiden was strong and pushed on ahead.  Paddy was hungry and we stopped at a big tent on the top of a hill and had baguettes as the sun came up.  I was loving it!

Paddy soon left me behind but I joined a Spanish group with a friend from PLAT for a while and at some point remember having a chat with Eoghan before he to left me.

When I arrived a Fougeres the scale of the controls became apparent.  I got my card stamped and then cycled down to the caffeteria where I had my first proper meal for nearly 24 hours.  Pasta, pasta, pasta.

Slept outside on the grass for 20 minutes or so.

Control, eat, nap – it would become a regular routine.

Stage 3 – TINTENIAC

(Stats and GPS include to Quédillac)

Departed:    Aug 17, '15, 11:32AM
Starts in:    Fougères, Bretagne, FR
Distance:    81.1 km
Elevation:    + 640 / - 680 m
Max Grade   
6.1 %
Avg. Grade   
0.6 %
VAM    287 Vm/h
Ascent time    02:13:53
Descent time    01:28:29
Total Duration:    05:07:03
Moving Time:    03:46:25
Stopped Time:    01:20:38
Calories:    2027
Avg. Watts:    149
Max Speed:    54.2 kph
Avg. Speed:    21.5 kph
Pace:    00:03:47
Moving Pace:    00:02:48

(

I’m pretty sure I spent most of this section trying to keep up with a French guy from Loudac, he had first done PBP to celebrate his 50’th and was now doing it to celebrate his 70’th!

At the control Aiden was just leaving. 

I ate a baguette, said hello to Randoneurs Portugal.  José, who had fixed my front mech on PLAT, was checking I’d fitted campy as advised.  I think he was telling me to replace that brake lever too!

LOUDEAC

(Stats and GPS are from Quédillac)

Departed:    Aug 17, '15, 04:40PM
Starts in:    Quédillac, Bretagne, FR
Distance:    59.0 km
Elevation:    + 525 / - 445 m
Max Grade   
5.9 %
Avg. Grade   
0.9 %
VAM    266 Vm/h
Ascent time    01:58:23
Descent time    00:49:02
Total Duration:    02:54:03
Moving Time:    02:48:28
Stopped Time:    00:05:35
Calories:    1635
Avg. Watts:    162
Max Speed:    52.9 kph
Avg. Speed:    21.0 kph

 

Parked next to these classic bikes that a couple of Italians rode.

I stopped at the optional services control – Quédillac – which was a bit chaotic.  May have slept here for 20 minutes.

By this stage I’d stopped taking pictures and things are a little more blurry – but party mode was in full swing with bands and parties in all the small villages!

CARHAIX-PLOUGUER – “Keep her lit”

Departed: Aug 17, '15, 07:59PM
Starts in: Loudéac, Bretagne, FR
Distance: 78.7 km
Elevation: + 852 / - 840 m 
Max Grade 11.5 %
Avg. Grade 1.0 %
VAM   321 Vm/h
Ascent time  02:39:23
Descent time  01:24:03
Total Duration: 05:18:43
Moving Time: 04:03:28
Stopped Time: 01:15:15
Calories: 1849
Avg. Watts: 127 
Max Speed: 50.7 kph
Avg. Speed: 19.4 kph

Roadside sandwich and pastis

Loudac was a busy control.  I said hello to Divya from Aidax India.  Aiden was there but he had his drop bag and was going to shower and change.  Queues were too big so I pushed on.  Up the road I stopped at my first roadside table and a charming extended family made me a ham sarnie and sent me up the road with a Pastis – certainly put fire in the legs.

I rode some hills with a French girl whose name I never got.  All I know is she was planning to go to Brest that night like me and then on to Carhaix.  I was hoping to ride through to Brest or at least as far as Carhaix with her as we were well matched for pace and it was good to have company. 

Riders were coming the other way now.  I knew some of the 80 hour Irish riders would be in amongst them, but they were too fast, too many or it was too dark for me to make anyone out.  So I began to shout “keep her lit”, thinking any Irish rider would not only know the encouragement was directed at them, but would also probably be able to tell it was me shouting it.

I lost her at the Saint-Nicolas-du-Pélem services stop, but I did get some pasta to top me up at the canteen.  Chatted to one of the controllers who was on his food break and kitted up for the night.

People were definitely starting to suffer from sleep deprivation by this stage.

Carhaix was busy a lot of people were resting for a while here, including Aiden and John, an AUK rider who had done the MF, who I would ride with the next day.

I took food, wine and 20 minutes sleep.

Finally Brest

Departed: Aug 18, '15, 03:01AM
Starts in: Carhaix-Plouguer, Bretagne, FR
Distance: 89.5 km
Elevation: + 775 / - 884 m 
Max Grade 6.1 %
Avg. Grade 0.5 %
VAM   268 Vm/h
Ascent time  02:53:53
Descent time  01:37:22
Total Duration: 06:11:30
Moving Time: 04:35:49
Stopped Time: 01:35:41
Calories: 2095
Avg. Watts: 127 
Max Speed: 52.0 kph
Avg. Speed: 19.5 kph

However, I had underestimated the climbing and my tiredness and after an hour or so it was apparent that I was not going to make Brest that night.

So I got out my silver blanket, put my jacket on and, like many others, lay down on the verge. 

I awoke an hour or so later.  It was cold but luckily there was plenty of climbing.

Dawn was misty.  Descents into Brest were fast.  I was with a large mixed group. 

Eventually I reached the famous bridge and stopped, like everyone else, for the obligatory photos.

I did the photographic honours for a group of Italians and they did me!

At the control I showered, changed into my fast kit (Madigan CC), ate and slept (1 hour).  I don’t remember seeing anyone else other than the Portugeuse arriving as I departed.

Carhaix again

Departed: Aug 18, '15, 11:06AM
Starts in: Brest, Bretagne, FR
Distance: 83.7 km
Elevation: + 922 / - 821 m 
Max Grade 6.8 %
Avg. Grade 1.0 %
VAM   298 Vm/h
Ascent time  03:05:39
Descent time  01:12:48
Total Duration: 04:43:38
Moving Time: 04:20:17
Stopped Time: 00:23:21
Calories: 2173
Avg. Watts: 139 
Max Speed: 59.3 kph
Avg. Speed: 19.3 kph

The return over the hills from Brest was beautiful in glorious sunshine.

Fast kit selfie

I stopped at someone’s campervan for coffee.

I shouted and waved at John (OS), Bernard Flynn (who I think shouted back) and Noel going the other way.

I also saw a fair few K and L groups and I pitied them as they would be chasing time into Brest.

Don’t remember much about the control – other than it was still busy!  I may have talked to Paul who had somehow lost George.

LOUDEAC

Departed: Aug 18, '15, 04:25PM
Starts in: Carhaix-Plouguer, Bretagne, FR
Distance: 82.8 km
Elevation: + 832 / - 847 m 
Max Grade 8.0 %
Avg. Grade 0.9 %
VAM   312 Vm/h
Ascent time  02:40:03
Descent time  01:31:02
Total Duration: 06:05:53
Moving Time: 04:11:29
Stopped Time: 01:54:24
Calories: 1417
Avg. Watts: 94 
Max Speed: 51.2 kph
Avg. Speed: 19.8 kph

I may have slept on the road and there may have been a Secret control somewhere where they gave me cake.

I stopped at Saint-Nicolas-du-Pélem (services only) again, and sat with the same controller, again, and had pasta, again!

Helen was just pulling in as I was leaving and we rolled out together.  At a roadside stop I met a couple of Welshmen who I had ridden a section of LEL with.

Helen had a strict timetable so pushed on when it looked like it was in jeopardy.  I had no timetable and no legs so let her go.

Loudac was busy again.  Again, I don’t think I stopped.

TINTENIAC

Departed:    Aug 19, '15, 12:35AM
Starts in:    Loudéac, Bretagne, FR
Distance:    85.7 km
Elevation:    + 674 / - 776 m
Max Grade   
7.8 %
Avg. Grade   
0.6 %
VAM    256 Vm/h
Ascent time    02:38:08
Descent time    01:48:31
Total Duration:    05:29:59
Moving Time:    04:28:45
Stopped Time:    01:01:14
Calories:    1798
Avg. Watts:    112
Max Speed:    46.2 kph
Avg. Speed:    19.1 kph

I must have been pretty tired by now as I have little recollections of the journey.

I stopped at the tent again and got coffee.

At Tinteniac, I think it was here where either on the way in or out, I met with Conor, Aiden and maybe Brian who were planning to push straight through to Paris and asked if I wanted to joint them.  I knew I wouldn’t make it in one so I declined.  Not sure what happened to that Plan as Aidan was alone at Villaines (?) next time I saw him.

I got some pasta.  I was so tired, by the time I got to the counter I thought my coffee was soup and I spooned grated cheese into it!

Slept for an hour on the floor.

 

FOUGERES

Departed:    Aug 19, '15, 07:59AM
Starts in:    Tinténiac, Bretagne, FR
Distance:    54.5 km
Elevation:    + 417 / - 366 m
Max Grade   
6.3 %
Avg. Grade   
0.8 %
VAM    263 Vm/h
Ascent time    01:35:07
Descent time    00:53:51
Total Duration:    03:10:40
Moving Time:    02:33:40
Stopped Time:    00:37:00
Calories:    1445
Avg. Watts:    157
Max Speed:    46.0 kph
Avg. Speed:    21.3 kph

 

Lovely castles at dawn?

Sandwich and on!

VILLAINES-LA-JUHEL

Departed:    Aug 19, '15, 11:13AM
Starts in:    Fougères, Bretagne, FR
Distance:    89.2 km
Elevation:    + 893 / - 810 m
Max Grade   
6.9 %
Avg. Grade   
1.1 %
VAM    298 Vm/h
Ascent time    02:59:53
Descent time    01:30:53
Total Duration:    05:21:21
Moving Time:    04:30:56
Stopped Time:    00:50:25
Calories:    1690
Avg. Watts:    104
Max Speed:    54.6 kph
Avg. Speed:    19.8 kph

Again – very little memory of the ride.

The control was heaving with supporters.  It was like the finish of a race!  I took a shower and changed into my finishing gear.

The canteen, that I missed on the way through, was huge and there was a ramp down to the sports hall with seating.

School kids were on hand to carry food trays for weary cyclists!

It was surreal.

Niall, Bernard and, I think, Aidan were there and we ate together.  I took my usual 20 minutes nap on the grass.

MORTAGNE-AU-PERCHE

Departed:    Aug 19, '15, 04:59PM
Starts in:    Villaines-la-Juhel, Pays de la Loire, FR
Distance:    81.3 km
Elevation:    + 801 / - 746 m
Max Grade   
7.8 %
Avg. Grade   
0.9 %
VAM    359 Vm/h
Ascent time    02:13:46
Descent time    01:21:42
Total Duration:    05:39:59
Moving Time:    03:36:30
Stopped Time:    02:03:29
Calories:    926
Avg. Watts:    71
Max Speed:    52.6 kph
Avg. Speed:    22.5 kph

I rode with Niall, with a large group drafting a tandem and then with Drew (AUK), John, who I’d met the night before, Ruth and a Korean guy whose name I’ve forgotten.

Typical town centre support – all the women laying on refreshments and men propping up a bar admiring the bikes.  Every so often a big cheer as a local arrived and the whole town would come out!

We rode as a group and stopped in the town centre at Mamers where we got soup and cake. Drew rode on alone but the rest of us continued working as a group into the night until the climb to Mortagne.

The climb into Mortagne was brutal, with the final ramp having many on there feet.

I was organised.  I took food and sleep rapidly and then found the rest of the group, but none of them had taken either.

I took coffée and translated for a man who’d lost his wallet and another who wanted 3 more pan au chocolates.

A PBP ancien, told me there was 20km of “brutal” climbing before the plains.  He was in the 84 hour group and thinking of quitting.  He had loads of time.  I told him to go and get 2 hours sleep before making any rash decisions.  He was a bit delirious.  I hope he listened.

 

DREUX

Departed:    Aug 20, '15, 12:14AM
Starts in:    Mortagne-au-Perche, Basse-Normandie, FR
Distance:    64.3 km
Elevation:    + 420 / - 594 m
Max Grade   
6.2 %
Avg. Grade   
0.4 %
VAM    268 Vm/h
Ascent time    01:33:51
Descent time    01:38:07
Total Duration:    04:49:38
Moving Time:    03:15:36
Stopped Time:    01:34:02
Calories:    807
Avg. Watts:    69
Max Speed:    49.0 kph
Avg. Speed:    19.7 kph

Yes there were some hills on the way out.

After 15km or so I pulled into a Café that was still open.  Double expresso.  Chatted to some Frenchmen who were thinking about LEL and who were convinced that it was now downhill all the way to Paris.

This didn’t really compute as I’d remembered hills on the way in.

As I was leaving – Seamus arrived and told me Niall was passing.  I chased him down.  Don’t remember how long we stayed together though!

At some point I stopped and slept – again.

At Dreux I sat down with Aidan, Niall and  Eoaghn who were about to leave, a large lump of lamb and a beer.   Food was great.

I seem to remember Helen, Conor, Brian and possibly Paul arriving as I left.

SAINT-QUENTIN-EN-YVELINES

Departed:    Aug 20, '15, 06:02AM
Starts in:    Dreux, Centre-Val de Loire, FR
Distance:    63.1 km
Elevation:    + 499 / - 382 m
Max Grade   
14.9 %
Avg. Grade   
1.0 %
VAM    280 Vm/h
Ascent time    01:46:50
Descent time    01:11:27
Total Duration:    03:41:02
Moving Time:    03:07:14
Stopped Time:    00:33:48
Max Speed:    45.0 kph
Avg. Speed:    20.2 kph

Climbed out of Dreux into the dawn.  Lay down in a field for a while but was woken by solid rain.

Me and the guy I shared the field with got up and mounted our bikes as if it was a typical morning.

The hills and the rain were sharp – but they suited me and I actually started to pass people on the climbs.  Felt like I was the fastest rider on the road!

I think others were suffering in the wet and many lacked the appropriate clothing.

Soon enough I was riding into Saint Quentin and, despite a near disaster trying to bunny hop the last ramp, was running for the control (despite having 2 1/2 hours left).

There I found Eoghan and the couple on the tandem I’d met at the start.

There was no beer or wine!  But it arrived shortly, as did many of my comrades as they finished or who had finished the night before and were coming in to watch.

I think the beer made me drunk very quickly so I made my way back to the hotell

Sleep and home

Back at the hotel I literally collapsed on the bed.  Twice.  Once before the shower and once after.

I awoke after about 20 hours sleep, was joined at breakfast by Helen who was riding off into Paris.

Packed the bike, taxi to the train station – taxi driver’s dad had done PBP and he hoped to do it one day - a couple of trains and a flight later and I was home.

Reflections

If you’d of asked me in Dreux if I’d do it again – I’d have said probably.  If you’d asked me at the finish I’d have said tomorrow!

I pretty much loved the entire ride!

Two things made it great – the French and France.  The support of both the volunteers and the supporters along the route was just fantastic.

And, as one American put it, “the French have made France exactly how it should be”.  It was stunning.

I was happy enough with my progress too – maintaining a good average moving speed whilst making time for socialising, beer and food.  I should probably have taken a long stop at Carhaix on the way out but that’s about all I’d change.

I might consider the 84 hour group next time!